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Messages - Brian1612

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1
Your Abarth / Re: Our Trio of Topless Italians
« on: September 12, 2016, 12:13:51 PM »
Very disappointing giving the title of the thread... :D

2
Introductions / Re: Carbon fibre dashboard .
« on: September 08, 2016, 03:49:02 PM »
Hi Bertie,
 I could be wrong but pretty sure the backs of the Sabelts are the real deal as it describes them as carbon fibre in the brochure as against the dash which it describes as carbon fibre finish which is what alerted me to it in the first place.
The price of c/f is not as bad as Abarths' price for the biposto dash might suggest as good after market Sabelt backs are about 600 euros and dash about 400 euros , so they could do it for £520 and make a little dosh . Perhaps they've pulled it because of complaints of it not being real !?
Best of luck with your delivery too sir !

George

Just seen this, it looks like the carbon Sabelts are not soild carbon fiber after all. They come from their 'Carbon look' range which are standard fiberglass seats laminated with a layer of carbon. According to the site Sabelt only supply Ferrari and McLaren with true carbon seats.

http://www.sabelt.com/en/business-unit/original-equipment/carbon-look

Not too impressed with that info in all honesty.

So your paying 2950k for the performance pack but individually it is (£350) wheels, (£1200) leather sabelts, (£170) coloured mirrors/stripes, (£100) for roof cap... total of £1820.

The LSD ends up an £1'130 option from factory?! Seems expensive for an option from factory when you can pick up a Quaife for £600. 


3
Abarth 500, 595 & 695 / Re: 595 comp - who should I place my order with ?
« on: September 07, 2016, 01:33:49 PM »
I went 6.5 hrs to use Nuneaton. Was a terrific experience and the best deal available by nearly £100 per month.

4
Introductions / Re: Hello - Just Ordered
« on: September 07, 2016, 01:31:52 PM »
The new 'Esseesse' style wheels or supersports are forged now. Stronger and lighter than the old Esseesse wheels I believe.

5
Introductions / Re: Carbon fibre dashboard .
« on: September 06, 2016, 02:44:00 PM »
So 800 quid for a fake CF dash piece? Talk about rip off. Makes more sense to just do what we have done so far and carbon dip the existing dash.

6
General Chat / Re: Alfa Giulia
« on: September 06, 2016, 02:41:13 PM »
My next car will be the QV if the residuals are anything like old Alfa's. Hoping for a 30k example in 2-3 years :D

7
For Sale / Re: Gloss Black Climate Control fascia
« on: August 19, 2016, 03:51:01 PM »
Sorry to hear that S13GE, hope you and your family are ok.

I would be interested in the Fascia but I'd only be willing to pay cost price for the part itself.

£30 delivered would be my only offer bud.

8
Abarth 500, 595 & 695 / Re: Podium Blue Paint
« on: August 17, 2016, 12:16:39 PM »
Hi Brian

Of course a good washing technique will always help.  But I canít help but thinking that snow foam and the two bucket method - is that not a bit excessive for the average owner?  No disrespect to you, I know you know a lot about detailing, but is there not something a bit more middle of the road that will prevent most damage to paint through washing?  To offer a slightly more basic take on it, here is my washing method:

Start by rinsing the car with a hose.  Give it a thorough soaking which will help to start to lift the dirt.

Get a clean bucket with warm water and a car shampoo of your choice. Use decent stuff, itís worth it as the better ones donít break down your wax/sealant coat so quickly.

Use a microfiber type sponge/applicator (these are about £5-6 from detailing suppliers).  DO NOT use a traditional sponge as these do not lift dirt away, they just scratch the hell out of the paint by dragging the dirt over it.

Start at the top and work your way down.  When you have finished a panel, give it a rinse straight away with the hose and also rinse out the sponge.  The two bucket method is in my opinion not necessary as long as you donít allow the sponge to touch the bottom of the bucket (where most of the grit is sitting) and rinse it out regularly.

Have a different applicator for doing the wheels and under the side skirts where most of the gritty dirt is.  I have one of those microfiber mittens I found in a supermarket to do the wheels (cost about £3).

Once the car is washed, use a microfiber drying towel to dry it (about £12 from detailing supplier).  A spare bath towel is not so good as the fibres are not soft enough and can cause scratching.

The above I find is fine for me, and it has not caused damage to the paint when washing.

I agree somewhat about it being excessive but that is why my paintwork is pristine bar a few marks because of my shoes. . I would say though the 2BM is the most important part of the wash and an absolute essential. To even suggest it isn't is mental if you want to keep your paint scratch free. Try it SJS then see the difference between the water/dirt in each at the end of it. By using the 1 bucket all your doing is washing your car with dirty water, your allowing yourself the opportunity to pick up previously removed grit when dunking and rubbing it along the paint work, it may lay at the bottom but to rinse the mitt out properly you will disturb the water and as such lift the dirt particles up from the bottom of the bucket.

Also using a cheap MF sponge is no better than using a cheap foam sponge. If the wash applicator doesn't have long, plush fibres (I don't mean noodles either as they are rubbish) it will perform just the same as a big yellow sponge.  A properly good wash mitt like a Dooka and the two bucket method are absolute essentials for anyone looking to look after their paint. The rest I suggested such as the pre-wash, qd drying aid etc are just further steps to prevent scratching. I can almost guarantee if you compared your own paint to mines you would see the difference all these steps make. No swirls, no scratches at all due to wash technique, just the marks from my shoe.

The paint even required a good UC compound polish from new due to dealership prep but that's always expected. Ideally for any novice in my own opinion a PW is a must (pre-rinse a lot of the dirt off) along with the 2BM wash, good shampoo and a decent wash mitt. Those are the bare essentials in my mind if you want to take care of your own car.

9
Abarth 500, 595 & 695 / Re: Podium Blue Paint
« on: August 16, 2016, 12:21:13 PM »
Thought it was just me, but my 2 week old Podium Blue Yamaha Racing has a couple of surface scratches. Caused I think by (would you believe)  the new stretch soft indoor cover (while in garage). Tried to t-cut them out but just made it worse because there are still the scratches and now swirl marks.

T-cut really? No wonder you made it worse, T-cut is like rubbing your paint with a pot scourer. Will need machined with a medium cut dimishing polish. Imagine something like Megs UC on a medium cut pad will sort it out.

When I see threads like this I can't help but think the issue is poor wash technique and reading stuff like the above pretty much confirms my suspicions. With paints like Podium Blue and my own Scorpion black car, due to them being a dark metallic colour they are going to show any scratches clearly. Ideally you should be  carrying out a pressure wash rinse, apply a pre-wash/foam, allow to dwell before rinsing then cleaning the car using the 2 bucket method. This is essentially 1 bucket filled with a shampoo mix, one bucket with fresh water. Clean the car top to bottom 1 panel at a time before giving the mitt a good rinse in the clean water removing all the dirt picked up from the panel, squeeze all the water out before dunking into your clean shampoo bucket and moving onto the next panel. Doing this keeps one bucket filled with dirt and the other clean along with your mitt meaning at each panel your mitt has no dirt particles on it.

A quality shampoo like Wax Addict, Britemax, CLB, Carchem is a must as is a good wash mitt/pad. Dooka or Microfibre Madness do good quality ones. Same story with any MFs/drying towels you use on your paintwork. The korean MF cloths from saverschoice are excellent for the money and the silverback XL drying towel is the best on the market. Also when using your drying towel to dry the car use a QD as a drying aid. This provide more lubricity when dragging the towel over the paint further reducing the risk of scratches. Something like Wowo's Quick detailer or Lucas Oil Slick Mist are excellent at this. 

Hope this helps people in the future to look after their paint. Ideally with the scratches already applied to the cars your going to see a machine polish, medium cut pad and some Megs UC to remove the swirls/light scratches. After that protect the paint with a wax/sealant and wash it safely as described above, should prevent the light scratches appearing again.

10
Car still looks great regardless. Black is my favorite colour of course! ;)

11
Looking good Sia but think the mud flaps don't work on the car, would be better with yellow scorpions on them!

12
General Chat / Re: ive gone and done the unthinkable.
« on: August 13, 2016, 06:59:19 PM »
You can bet your boots the 180 is faster! ;) look forward to the photo's and can say Oliver at research abarth was superb. Well worth the 7hr drive there and back for the deal and biposto track day. Put me up in a hotel for the night with dinner included also :)

13
General Chat / Re: September has come early
« on: August 13, 2016, 03:50:54 AM »
Old one would likely have seized shut I'd guess. Sounds great and a lot more tech going on with them now FRZ!

14
General Chat / Re: September has come early
« on: August 11, 2016, 12:37:14 PM »
Lovely car FRZ, I'm sure you love it already ;)

15
General Chat / Re: Abarth 595 Comp Modena Yellow - fully loaded
« on: August 10, 2016, 12:32:19 PM »
No performance pack?

I saw you listed 695/formula alloys. The grey sabelts are no longer an option but the black leather actually has the same grey colour a little on the outline of the bolstered sides.

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